A Garden in the Dead of Night at Christopher Kane F/W 2010

Posted in Uncategorized by nudepink on March 11, 2010

Christopher Kane is making his woman dangerous and sending her into the dark night. For fall, he is clearly attempting to get away from the sweet party-friendly frocks for which he so revered, giving a show that was the antithesis to his offerings for spring. While Kane has far surpassed the cliched young designer label, he is still experimenting and clearly, taking risks. This season, he is thinking of a girl walking in a garden, lost in the dead of night.

These were clothes for a sexy dominatrix obsessed with beauty, as black leather embroidered with oversized florals and leather studded with jewels dominated the runway. It began with sheer and lace blouses with neat collars that were heavily embroidered and jackets that continued the florals on the sleeves and near the hems of jackets and skirts. This gave it the appearance of flowers, quite literally, growing from the hems. There was plenty of daywear, but the cocktail dresses on offer featured tight patent leather bodices and one with a panel of lace on the front of the skirt and leather cap sleeves. Kane is clearly experimenting with combining fabrics, something designers are realizing is crucial to modernizing their designs. This gave the show, which could have easily grown into something one-dimensional, a new attitude and edge. There were lace and leather tops and dresses studded with jewels on the waists and bodices. Oversized florals can, at times, feel a little “mumsy”, but here they were fresh and new, in the biker jacket with flowers running down its sleeves and lapels. It was almost cartoonish, the way the flowers were so colourful and popped on the black leather, but maintained a severity and seriousness in the tailoring.

Severe, brooding schoolgirls came to mind. Indeed, this will be the uniform for London girls. Like the gorilla prints he showed for Spring ’09, there were seriously recognizable pieces here. He has set himself apart again, which should, ultimately, be the goal for any young designer. A walk in the garden of good and evil? Yes, please.


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