NUDE PINK

90s Revival at Celine F/W 2010

Posted in Uncategorized by nudepink on March 11, 2010

Phoebe Philo’s second collection for the house of Celine served as a reminder of her focused approach and cemented her return to fashion. Some people are worth the wait and she, once again, proved that she was worth it. Her manifesto of purposeful dressing continued. Everything in the show had a place and a purpose, every zipper, every seam had a role. Philo clearly has no time for frivolity and that, one could argue, is the basis of good, effective design.

Following the show, she cited Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista and the 90s as references, with a richness that was all too evident. There were high collared wool coats and coat dresses that buttoned up the side, some with square leather pockets worn with narrow, 3/4 length trousers. Again this season, she kept the silhouette predominantly close to the body, giving the clothes the look of a second skin. Black high waisted leather skirts were paired with neat white blouses either buttoned up to the neck or unbuttoned for a relaxed, glamorous look. White lace tops were worn with a long lace skirt skirt. Long sleeved leather tees, a nod to last season were also paired with high waisted pants or skirts. Luckily for the Celine customer, she will be warm this season as Philo featured long, navy wool coats and thick sleeveless turtle necks that felt chic.

It was power dressing in a new way, due to the sharp tailoring and architectural cuts, with not a trouser suit in sight. Madame Claude, who in the 60s was the head of a french network of call girls that served dignitaries, dressed her girls in Celine, and while these clothes do not evoke images of sex, power and seduction certainly does. These are clothes that women crave for every stage of their day. Though they may appear deceptively simple, they lend the wearer a look that is complex, clever and, yes, tres seductive. Perhaps these are words we can use to describe Ms. Philo, too.

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