Psychedelic Marni

Posted in Uncategorized by nudepink on March 4, 2010
Looking at Marni’s offerings for fall, it’s obvious Consuelo Castiglioni is in a groovy state of mind. She seems to have fallen in love with the glam rock era of David Bowie and seventies decor, but stayed true to her minimalist, less-is-more point of view. While her customer often has a wild streak, the show managed to stay on the fine line between artful clothes and eccentricity, at times almost falling into the latter, but staying on course thanks to the sharp tailoring.The silhouettes were boxy and structured, compared with the ease and carefree attitude of the spring show, but still conveyed Marni’s signature playfulness and sense of humour.
It began with pailletted tops and dresses and quickly moved onto boxy, colour block sweaters and structured t-shirts with abstract paintings on the fronts. Sheer, voluminous tops in black and caramel were worn over a vest or sharply cut skirt, and was followed by the main attraction. In the middle of the show, Castiglioni sent out 70s upholstery patterned suits and long dresses, which could have easily fallen into the aforementioned eccentric realm if not for their severe tailoring. These were done in greens, pinks, browns and reds that would jolt anyone awake.
Many of the looks emphasized the waist, with rounded, exaggerated peplum skirts worn over a longer skirt or bermuda shorts. Fur front vests and jackets, with neoprene fabric in the back, looked structured and modern. At times they were oversized, like in an oversized pink fur skirt worn over tapered pants. Despite the near obsessive attention to detail and serious cuts, there was the usual ease and happy mood that made its way through the show. As usual, Castiglioni did not take herself too seriously.
What is remarkable about Marni is that these are clothes that no one really needs, but they evoke such a deep desire to own them because they are so clever. One truly feels it is possible to be the person one wishes to be in these clothes – cool, slightly eccentric, but always taken seriously. This season, Consuelo certainly got her groove back.


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